CORSAIR from Hangar9 - 50 size

[saboo]

It seems from some of these later posts that EMI or RFI MAY be an issue. Either the retracts are electrically "noisy" or are sensitive to external Electro Magnetic Interference (EMI).

Some steps I would take if it were my system.

1) If ribbon wires feed retracts or other servos, change to braided or twisted servo leads. You can convert ribbon to braid by removing the connector at the end of the servo lead and then carefully splitting the ribbon into 3 separate wires. Practice on the lead of a dead servo. Then braid the 3 wires and put the connector back on the end. I find braid better than twisting alone, as it incorporates both twist and crossing of wires.

2) Replace any ribbon style servo lead extensions with twisted style servo extensions.

3) Use heavier gauge servo leads. Typical servo leads are 26 or 28 gauge wire. Heavy ones are usually 22 gauge

4) Shield items suspected of generating noise with aluminum tape used in duct work. Usually 2" wide and about $10.00 a roll. You can wrap the wires from the ESC to the motor as an example.

5) Find iron core ferrite rings used in RF suppression in electronics. I collect every size and style I ever come across. Multiplex used to supply a ring on the ESC of their Ready to Run Easystar for example. Place these rings on the leads to / from devices that generate "Noise".

6) Separate leads from each other. In other words do not nicely bundle your servo leads together. This can induce crosstalk where the signal in one cable gets transferred to another through inductive coupling.

7) On long battery runs to your ESC, add additional low ESR capacitors of the same value that is already installed on the ESC. Battery to ESC runs of longer than 8 inches should have an additional cap installed for each 8" or portion of 8" longer than the original lead. So if the length from the battery to ESC is 12" a 2nd cap should be installed. ESR means Equivalent Series Resistance.

8) Braid the 3 wires from the ESC to the motor.

Those are just a few of the steps that I take when building a model. There are many more I am sure. These are ones I use. Different situations call for different solutions.

Hope this helps.

[retiredVTT]

Ok...when I simply use a separate 5 volt regulated power supply, in this case a "Scorpion Backup Guard" ($24.95 from Innova8tive Designs), all problems were gone. Well, this is after getting rid of that amplified Y harness that E-flite supply with the retracts. You would think that HH would address this problem with a note in the package.

So in the Corsair I will go with a separate BEC, maybe set it to 6 volts, if the retracts can handle that voltage.

https://vimeo.com/87429509

Bill

[retiredVTT]

..some more progress, wing sections are joined to the center section, and attachment points have been glued in. A bit disappointed with the fit of these three sections, but all in all, it's not something that will likely effect the performance.
This is a long wing..! All literature says 57 inch...well, it every bit of 59 inches..!

Finally got the fuselage out of it's bag and preparing it to receive the wing. After they are mated, there is a fiberglas "bellypan" that gets installed on the bottom of the wing to continue the round look of the fuselage. According to the thread on RCGroups, the fitting of this component can be troublesome and the manual even suggests heating it in warm water to reshape it slightly if needed.


Bill

[retiredVTT]

Well, the bellypan was (is) probably the most frustrating part of the build...I fooled with it over a couple of days before I was finished with it. Even forgot to take pictures of it....but I'll do that at a later date.

This weekend it was time to get the tail feathers done so the fuselage can be hung up and the big ole empty box can be discarded. Too many big boxes around here..! (Big boxes prompt big questions)

I had to trim the elevators on the fuselage ends so they would not strike the fuse when deflecting downward. Glad I saved some scraps of covering removed earlier.

Next will be servo installations...I'm using the A6180's from Spektrum. Close to 100oz torque on 6vts with metal gears and waterproof..!

Bill

[retiredVTT]

Servos are in and connected.

Rudder servo pushrod actually goes to the tailwheel and a torque rod runs from the tailwheel up to the rudder.

Bill

[retiredVTT]

Here are pics of that pesky fiberglas bellypan that gets epoxied into place. It's there to maintain the roundness of the bottom where the wing meets the fuselage.

Bill

[retiredVTT]

Starting to look and feel like a Corsair...!

Bill

[retiredVTT]

..sneek peek at the first fitting of the front end, looks like there might be an extra 1/2" spacing between prop and cowl due to somebody wanting a slightly larger motor than called for..!

Bill

[yorcram]

Looks good Bill,
You should maiden it on Sunday at Porters lake.

Marc

[retiredVTT]

Looks good Bill,
You should maiden it on Sunday at Porters lake.

Marc

..that could be a dangerous move Marc, with the Hobby Show just a month away..!

Bill